Why do we need so many different means to cleanse the skin? And when, finally, there will be products with SPF that don’t need to smear on a thick layer? On the occasion of the beginning of sales in Russia of care Ian Lancaster city held a public talk with the Vice President of brand scientific development Dr. Olivier Dose and asked all the uncomfortable questions that she had accumulated.
Care Lancaster has been sold in Russia, but for some, it is not clear to me reasons, at the time we left. And in April returned to us, at the same time with the world, has introduced three new lines, divided into age groups: Skin Life (25+)…
365 Skin Repair (35+)…
and Total Age Correction (45+):
And varied for purification, in which there are tonic, and foam, and macellari. We got five tools, not to mention that included in the Skin care Life, but if I’m not mistaken, generally in the range of more different markets chose a different set.
Care Lancaster exclusive will be sold in stores IDB and Sephora, the presentation took place in ITB on the streets, and on this occasion for the first time, people came who works in Lancaster 25 (!) years, currently occupying the position of Vice President for research and development — Dr. Olivier Dose.
To conduct the event invited me. I agreed: first, it’s fun and cool, and secondly, a great opportunity to ask Dr. Olivier questions that I had.
Because — well, of course, the marches more than 70 years, well, it is clear that we are from Monaco and made in France with all the consequences, well, of course, Lancaster adored grace Kelly, and it is clear that the solar Lancaster is a must have for any fashion Kurortniy and the same status accessory on the beaches of the Cote d’azur as Celine sunglasses and Gucci flip flops, only health benefits from it more. But what’s next? What they expect us to win back in your care? At present some abundance?
In General, a lot of questions. Some of them were asked during the public talk, the part on the sidelines. Dr. Olivier answered calmly, confidently and with a great knowledge of the subject. I love these characters.
In 1946, when Lancaster produced the first skin line brands, fighting for a place in this clearing, it was much less. Now they have multiplied and continue to multiply. At least in Russia you now have to compete not only with Chanel, Dior and Helena Rubinstein, but with the brands K-Beauty, eco-brands, with a strong trend for “all natural”, with hundreds of cute indie brands. Do you have any tricks up their sleeve, why should I choose Lancaster?
— Cards we have are the same as were examined. Scientific research and development. The years spent on testing. For example, we were the first who proposed to use care retinol…
Oh, my God. You still think that cooler is no beast? Even when this uses retinol every other brand and every third refuses to him, because too many “side effects”?
— Yes, now it is used by many. And some are planning to abandon it as there is already a “rationalizability” who do not have the side effects of the original retinol. But what’s the point? That many people think: just put the retinol, so that was working. No, not enough. Retinol by itself can work well, maybe so-so. You need to understand how to keep it stable, what is its concentration — under what environment will be most effective and safe. How to get it to penetrate deeper and work better, without increasing the concentration, which will inevitably lead to side effects. We use a special system of transportation of retinol in the skin. It allows to reduce quantity without reducing efficiency. A few years ago we even released the funds with retinol for sensitive skin. Such has not been done.
— So you think that replacing the retinol not?
— Retinol interacts with all types of cells — keratinocytes, fibroblasts, melanocyte. This unique ingredient. All use retinol, not everyone knows as much about him as we are. We are not going to abandon it. Let him refuse one who is not able to work with him.
And your retinol in the summer which can also be used?
— Retinol is sensitive to sunlight. It will not bring harm, but will be useless. So its better to use at night. It will work with your collagen. And with pigmentation. Use day — not dangerous, but pointless.
— OK, good. Tell us about indie brands — you are not afraid of them?
— No, we watched them with curiosity. They cheered the market. But you won’t be surprised if I say that often they declare something that is actually not are that not all of them are “natural”, “clean”, “green”? And they are not so different from what is on the market. In concept, Yes. According to the formulas and in fact — no. I’m not sure all of them will last long. Some will survive, some won’t. But it is at least interesting. I like how they promote themselves. Before instagram theme skin care was too boring and medical. Indie brands brought her fun dynamics. They made people interested in chemistry, formulations, ingredients. That’s fine.
— A question I have long been interested in, and you’re almost the only person in the world who can answer it, because the examination Lancaster sun protection is indisputable. What is the difference between cream with SPF30 for the city and cream with SPF30 for the beach? Can I in the city to use “beach” in the sun and Vice versa?
— From the standpoint of protection from UVB rays, these creams are identical. But according to European laws, the funds for the beach should include protection from UVA rays. As for the city — not necessarily. Yes, raises a lot of questions, I understand. The sun shines equally and in the centre of Barcelona, and Barcelona’s beaches. But it is assumed that in the city you still spend more time in the room. And such large areas of the body exposed to the sun. Now a debate that the city line should also add filters UBA. But this is at the level of the discussion.
— How about the fact that the beach is dominated by lines of physical filters and in urban — chemical, and creams with hemofiltrate necessary every two hours of sun exposure to wash off, otherwise they disintegrate and turn into a terrible free radicals?
— No need to wash them. Himility new generation, with — again — the correct layout and correct packing does not disintegrate and there is nothing wrong with the skin do not. Physical filters — Yes, give a white film. In General, what filter is better, chemical or physical, the eternal question, something like “the chicken or the egg”. But now there is nano-technology, which avoid the white face, and physical filters become less noticeable. Chemical filters give a more pleasant texture, and, in the end, this is important because you will use the cream only if you enjoy it. But himility do not give protection from the entire spectrum of rays. UVB and UVA — are not enough. It is only 6% of sunlight. Need protection from the other 90% of infrared rays and full spectrum light that comes from the sun. This requires physical filters. A better tool — one that combines all filters. The only way.
Creams “for the city” and “beach” are distinguished by their textures and, accordingly, compositions. Developing solar lines, we draw attention to water-resistance, micro-spring and things like that. When developing the line for the city, there is SPF as a bonus, but the main goal is to saturate the active ingredients. We don’t care, as this cream is water resistant. We think how to make it effective from the point of view of anti-aging. As far as it will moisturize, fight pigmentation and so on.
But I understand your question, and I have the answer. We’re about to release a premium line of Sun is Perfect. It all combined active anti-aging with powerful protection from the sun. She will appear soon. And this is the revolution that everyone was waiting.
Wow! Great! But you can read more about chemical filters? Did I hear that the funds that contain them, it is not necessary to flush every 2 hours? And how long do they work? I mean, how long this cream will guarantee me protection index 30 or 50?
— Yes, I repeat: cream with chemical filters do not need to rinse, and they work longer than 2 hours, I assure you. Our filters are stable. They do not collapse under the influence of the sun and not turn into free radicals. The only reason you need to put in cream again — because one way or another the tool is erased from the face. At least when you put the phone to your ear or scratch your nose:) But what is important to know about chemical filters: to go to sleep with them is not worth it. Wash night need even when you don’t have makeup.
— In the presentation you mentioned that the funds Lancaster tan guarantee safety, the “Safe tan” is generally what? Does it exist? Melanin are still produced, and the tan is an indicator that you’ve had your dose of sunlight.
You’re right, the phrase is rather a slogan than a scientific term. From the point of view of science, there is no safe tan. What we do in Lancaster, to reduce the risk? On the one hand, use powerful proven filters. On the other — add in the funds complex, accelerating the production of melanin. So you got the same tan in less time. Why people avoid to use sunscreen? Because I’m afraid that won’t tan. And they want tanned skin! And with that, we’re trying to fight. We say: with us you will be protected, but you will tan. Get a more dark skin tone faster, and you will not have to lie in the attitude of “stars” at noon the hot sun. On the same principle operate pills-Supplements for children. But they are slower, so they need to start drinking in advance, for a couple of weeks before the holiday. You can still eat the carrots, tomatoes, broccoli — all foods that contain lycopene and stimulates the production of melanin. By the way, in winter it’s not working: the level of lycopene in tomatoes summer higher than in winter. Because tomatoes also must be protected from the sun.
— And I have long tormented by the question. It is believed that, to guarantee the specified protection for the Bank — well, let’s say, SPF 50 — I have to put the cream on the face with a thick, fat layer. Two inches or three, something like that. Well, who does that? Especially in the city? And on the beach I rarely see. But if no one does, — what is the meaning of these figures?
— No one does. And no one should do. This is a different logic. Yes, when we test, we apply the tested patches of skin these 2 cm. But with a single purpose: to get clear data and reliable results to be able to unify all sunscreens, which are produced in the world. But we are well aware that no one gets so much. And, more importantly, this does not mean that “otherwise the cream doesn’t work.” SPF is not absolute. This is a variable. Different the skin this is the index behaves differently. For example, you dark, you enough SPF 15 where your white man friend needed SPF 30 or 50. The only thing here is certain — the more often you apply, the better protected. Imagine that you are painting the kitchen. One layer is good, better than it was, but not enough. The second — is better. Third — all the walls are dyed evenly. There are macro shooting, where you can see how many areas of the skin remain uncovered after the first application, how — after the second and so on. Even if the first layer is very thick, “not” areas still remain. Therefore, it is better to apply more frequently than thicker. Better twice SPF15 than once — SPF30. And from the texture it depends. So we are struggling with the texture to make it fluid, easy spreading over the skin. And therefore released a spray of mist — to be able to update the protection, without fear of damaging the make-up. But again, I repeat: do not forget to wash before sleep and to wash all those filters. Night give the skin a rest.
— By the way, about the cleansing. Why in the world produces so many different tools for this banal, in General, the goal? Why not just have one foam, for example, for all? Why did you so much “I can make” and how do I navigate that you need me?
— Depends on what you apply on your face. If you love makeup — you need a tool that it will wash away. Though here too there are nuances. You know, how much the market different waterproof mascaras. Some of them are really water-resistant, others — well. Some washed off by conventional means, others do not wash off at all. So there’s complexity:) But if you do not use waterproof mascara and tone, you such a tool certainly not necessary. All of our foam-tonic can be used for eyes, we have them tested on sensitive eyes. What do you need? The best option — double cleansing: first wash that the rinse with water, then that is not washed off with water. First use the cleanser then toner. Together they work better. Main wash only!:) You’d be surprised how many people don’t consider it mandatory.
— Speaking of tonics. You are in this range are. And we even in our team cannot come to a consensus if they are needed. Argue themselves hoarse. You think you need?
— Don’t argue:) need somebody, someone no. This is normal. Usually, people with dry and normal skin they deliver a comfortable feeling. People with oily skin often abandoned. But what they also cleanse the skin — a fact. And at the same time calm.
— You have another tool Express 3-in-1. In fact, the micellar water. And — the question of the century. Miceliari — so after all to wash it or not?
— Rinse. Sorry if I upset you, but — rinse.
And you used before the body means Lancaster? Sad if them like I do when they disappear? And what you have to say for the sun protection of this brand? I’m a fan, and really looking forward to Sun Perfect.