Is it always possible to determine the price of fragrance in its smell? Even if you have a trained nose? As it turns out, no. Or is it Yes?..
Lena and Yana got a handful of tubes — all 6 pieces. Both were known only that two flavors of this handful are in shops for 1000, two — 5000, and a couple of — more than 15 000 maybe 20 000.
They were practicing wearing them for a long time, thoughtfully, in different weather and mood conditions. If they made it in the end to understand where the mass market, where luxury, and luxury niche?
The scent No. 1
Lena: On the first breath – fresh aquatic with a metallic notes. On the second tree, herbs and fruit syrup. The feeling that the perfumer was asked to cram everything at once. So fresh, sweet, smooth, and never protruding. In the end, the nose not to be hooked. Cheap and messy. Although it probably costs about 5000 rubles.
And while holding the microphone, let me complain about the conditions of the experiment. There are two dozen reasons due to which the price of spirits impossible to guess by smell. Mass-market can successfully masquerade as a luxury. A niche can be carelessly collected. And almost any gourmet flavor for me personally will sound cheaper than, for example, leather. So I do not set myself the task: apples to apples, pears to pears. I want to give (conditional) evaluation is expensive or cheap it sounds the flavor, and then compare with the numbers on the price tag. At the same time to test yourself — not change if I opinion if I hear so-so perfume will suddenly become thoroughbred.
Yana: Cheerful Jusik. Quite a decent. The smell of mountain air and a bit of tea, in London, Fortnum & Mason, Mariage Freres or Paris, where they like to teas to mix kitchen herbs. There are also some hints to the Cologne, I would say, even on the blah-and-Cologne saw if a couple hours didn’t spread on the skin for various (and completely outlandish) lococci. Grass to one side of the field to the other.
Price — I think just about 1000 p. colony and they like the new fish come rarely are roads, but here also the quality of seams like H&M or Zara. But, if so, what kind of money for this fragrance is quite possible to give. Yes, for one season (read — hours), but playful and fun! If the vial is concise and pretty, I used this juice gave me a nice men, just no reason.
And too, while the microphone is not selected, I would say. It is clear that the price of the fragrance on the shelf not equal to the price of its ingredients and the perfumer’s fee. It is also clear that the bottle is no less important — even artcritic note that Shalimar from the tube and Shalimar with brush smell very different. Our the tubes — and all the tears, the “zilch” of them not to do, and diffusion is even more important than the bottle. But, in General, it is clear that all of these overtures I write with one purpose. Terribly afraid of screwing up, that’s the whole purpose:)
In fact it is…
Aroma Lavender & Black Tea, Cologne-Zation
Price: 1199 RUB./ 100 ml. in “L’etoile”
Aroma No. 2
Lena: a Decent citrus. Effervescent without priduri. When fresh grapefruit and red orange empty, transparent leather-wood bottom.
The smell of Italian leather. Room 10×10 meters from floor to ceiling, littered with suitcases, bags, handbags and gloves. To be here only if five wrong turns travel the streets. And due to such veering off route, poor bench and lives.
Total: starts like Atelier Cologne. Finish — in the spirit of Escentric Molecules (without Iso E Super, I think, has not done). If there is 20 thousand — I’ll pass. Feel free to disagree, but I think that touches and fascinates is the intersection of opposites. Hot/cold, oversized/skinny, black/white, sweet/ salty. Low genre (graffiti) and serious topics (politics). But here… here there is no conflict. Smooth, smooth heartbeat.
I hope everyone has 5000 R.
Ian: And that’s another Cup of tea. And do not tea at all, mint?.. Although something in common with the first. Slightly reminiscent of green Kryptomint A Men Mugler, which we all loved a few years ago. Spices found, checked — Yes, they do, but only at first breath. On the exhale, in this tube is another of damp earth, dust of the roads, worn timbs or, more precisely, conceptual pseudomonotone Rick Owens.
Think expensive. Men would not gave. Anyone would not give gifts of $$$, say, put the host side in an awkward position. No, I lie. You wouldn’t, but for a different reason: most have:)
In fact it is…
Aroma Time To Target, M. INT
Price: 15 900 RUB./ 70 ml. in the Department store.
Fragrance No. 3
Lena: Sterilized bandages. Creaky hospital bed. Weird, scary. Impossible to wear but to sniff out interesting. Or very expensive and with the claim, or so cheap that even well -))
Jan: First, like citrus and the heat — and then suddenly so cold rock a metallic taste that remains in your mouth if the cold to lick the railing. At least, interesting. (In my childhood I loved to lick the railing in the winter, and you?) And, by the way, I think I recently somewhere here smelled this particular scent, or very similar. If I could only remember where that is?.. However, I suspect there are a good perfumer, trickster and juggler. Well, the price I suspect is not weak. Maybe more 20 Tr to be simply too on the fan spirits. And a lover if the love — you know, the soul lay, but buy.
In fact it is…
Aroma Rubinia, Bvlgari.
Price: 23 760 in TSUM.
Aroma No. 4
Lena: Factory on processing of plastic. Then — sweet, sticky, old-fashioned and clumsy. 1000 rubles or so. But I would not give a penny.
Jan: So sweet emphasized that, even discouraging. As a girl, dressed head to toe in pink. See this on the street from behind and think, “is either very stupid, or a trendsetter, challenging the conventions”. To answer this question, the girl need to get ahead and to face. There is usually always written, who is in front of you, you can’t go wrong. Suppose, however, that it was an attempt of commercial fragrance and, accordingly, it will be plus or minus 5 Tr. Although it would be better sold if it cost 1000, or 20000. With appropriate facial expression:)
In fact it is…
Aroma Nude Eau De Parfum, Alaia
Price: 5600 RUB./ 30 ml. in “Rive Gauche”.
Fragrance No. 5
Lena: Oh, this is a collective image of a luxury Suite. When you take off the shelf one, the second, tenth, flavor, and the blotter — the same thing. About 1000 rubles.
Jan: Absolutely sure that commercial very well. Beauty beautiful girls like, the genre is sustained strictly, and in its genre it’s good. Only it is not necessary to it with your line of “Faust” by Goethe. Lilac there, the flowers, the humidity is there. (Perfumer portrayed morning? Anyway, good for him.) Price — 5000 — is fully justified.
In fact it is…
Aroma Bloom Acqua Di Fiori, Gucci
Price: 4499 RUB./ 30 ml. in “L’etoile”.
Aroma No. 6
Lena: bloody sign, and it’s confusing. I want to guess the brand and name, but a shame to miss. On the first breath imagined Chanel No. 5 Eau L (if removing roses)). Hmm, Chanel Beige? Say rather that it is – love it!)
Ian: I would say that this is also a commercial aromatic designed to like. A sort of honey nikatina. But read the terms and realized that all the places in the nomination “5 Tr” I already gave the other sisters on earrings:) Okay, let’s think logically. Have: something floral and highly spiritual. Flesh and blood, a shadow-the penumbra. To the road segment is not drawn: there are not enough statement. For the budget — too intelligent and educated. In Commerce — see above — seats are occupied. Okay. But if I were the organizer of this public flogging of a daring experiment, what would I do? I would take the best of the mass market and slipped his editor-in-chief, famous for their indiscreet inquiries. And let suffering. Assume that my logic is correct and she had done so. Then this flavor is 1000. But no matter how much it may cost, I wore it, because — well, good.
In fact it is…
The aroma of Once Upon a Time Aphrodisia, Brocard
Price: 1200 RUB./ 75 ml. for Pudra.ru.
Lena: Yes, a-a-a-all right, Aphrodisia? Indeed, had it once, but didn’t catch the similarity with the style of Chanel. I wonder what do the experts say (and first Love Berlinska, evaluator “Brocard”, had a hand in creating Aphrodisia): do you have Beiges and Once Upon a Time something in common? Or am I quite a fool, and such an Association had nowhere to take? In any case, this is the only fragrance from the collection that I would wear. The real price doesn’t matter, because for my taste, that is scent, this song sounds expensive (since we have introduced this terminology; although it is the subject of a separate discussion – what is “expensive sound”).
Otherwise, what was required to prove: fragrance segment 15 000 — 20 000 roubles stand out from the rest. But this does not mean that they automatically become good. Bvlgari weird and not wearable. M. INT — some chopped: citrus fruits – then, Bing! dusty leather. I think this composition lacks integrity. You know, there are the films: camera work on 5+, acting on a 5+, but in General not impressive.
Disappointed Gucci Bloom’acqua Di Fiori. The first tuberose by Gucci was very. And this is simple as glass.
Let us often arrange blind tests, and there’s more than one surprising discovery. I have a feeling that I met a great wine for 5 euros. Where, say, in the wording you put a bottle of Aphrodisia?)
Jan: When I saw the light and learned what flavors we actually tried it, felt like a man who won a million at the tram ticket:) That is undeserved lucky. To be honest, I focused mainly not on feelings, on mind, not on the nose, and logic. Step # 1 — define commercial fragrances designed to please everyone — to make it easier. Step N2 — to understand where “niche”, where “mass market” — is more complicated. Lena is right in saying that the current niche may look (and even more so to smell vials of something we haven’t seen), whatever. I do not agree with Lenin assessments, all participating in the test flavors tailored properly, taking into account the tasks assigned to them, and the respect of our Nastia Sureway that, as the project editor, found most suitable for such a test the spirits.
But I will not wear either and not because they are bad. It’s just that they now associate me not with sky, sea, clouds, leather, bergamot, or whatever it was, and with my personal fear not to fail. Although, maybe the time sweaty palms will dry up, and to Bvlgari and INT M., and Aphrodisia I’ll be back.
And by the way! I realized where I heard this very Rubinia, Bvlgari. A week or two ago, the brand has invited journalists to the Kremlin, an exhibition of jewelry Bvlgаri. (Exhibition bonkers, 500 unique necklaces, sotware, crowns with emeralds unaffordable carat, which, like a drop of water reflects the whole history of the world: a Royal passion, the star’s UPS and downs. Lasts until January, run all%) followed by the boutique in GUM, talk and smell interesting. And there I Rubinia and pulled. But, of course, doesn’t put the smell out of the tube with the smell of dizzying monumental bottle:) Oh wow!