The founders of Parle Moi de Parfum Mache explain Betweenyou why the formula length spirits sometimes inversely proportional to quality, and what flavors can be considered great.
Michelle Almairac is one of the most sought-after perfumers of our time. We can say, a legend. Did fragrances for Burberry, Bond No. 9, Givenchy, Gucci, Shiseido, Dior Fahrenheit. And, finally, made Parle Moi de Parfum, this personal family brand.
With a French name translates as “Talk to me about spirits”. Michel with his wife Elizabeth and sons Benjamin and Romain do all the time to discuss them. “For Breakfast, lunch and dinner,” told me Elizabeth.
Now in the lobby of the hotel “Ararat Park Hyatt” I expect myself Michelle Almairac and Benjamin. Both look a little tired — it seems that the tour and presentation schedule is painted on minutes. But in the early summer of Parle Moi de Parfum stood on the shelves of the Molecule (which we promptly reported), the time to explain to the General public, than these fragrances differ from one hundred existing super-niche, arch-exclusive, mega-beautiful and over-expensive.
About the voluntary program and the division of labor
And yet, who in your family came up with the idea to create a brand?
Benjamin: It came in three heads at once — dad’s, and my brother. In General, all logical happened. We from childhood grew up among the smells and conversations about them. And we, of course, was the temptation to follow in his father’s footsteps. But fortunately, we quickly realized that all would not be as cool as he is. But I managed to make friends with marketing and Romaine perfectly understands Analytics and feels the trends.
But why would a successful perfumer to do own brand, and so if enough work?
Michelle: you Know, the perfumers, as skaters, have a mandatory program, and is arbitrary. Mandatory — work in the company. In Robertet I feel part of a giant machine, and it’s too bad. But I want freedom from marketing framework to tell their own, and not invented by customer history. Parle Moi de Parfum — my free program.
Not hard to do two jobs?
Michelle: No, it’s a pleasure. I’m doing this for myself and for the whole family. And the fact that the whole family is involved in the process — it is excellent.
And in this family business are the responsibilities of? You have that all have a job description?
Benjamin: Well, no, we are not so bureaucratic:) Everyone can take part in any process. For example, what perfume to release, we decide together. And then dad comes up with songs. Romain, creative Director, he oversees global market trends, competitors, picks up the title. For me — sales, marketing, accounting, all these papers. And mom did the boutique design.
By the way, I heard you have an interesting format store in Paris?
Benjamin: Yeah, it’s a perfume laboratory-workshop, where the shelves are ingredients that you can try. We believe that a man is more interesting and easier to understand what you like and what not. A small production is immediately outside the door.
It’s part of the concept?
Benjamin: We don’t want to impose fragrances. Don’t do advertising photography, not saying that that is definitely necessary to wear, if you want to be sexy, but it is — if you want to be in trend this season. We want people to decide how they smell. For the same reason we don’t divide fragrances into male and female.
In 2016, you start immediately with 8 flavors. You all they were made precisely for your brand?
Michelle: Not really. Over the years I have accumulated a number of sketches that did not fit into the traditional framework. Like and not the mass market, and luxury, and clearly do not fit the usual marketing history. These pictures was in the table. Before starting I went through, chose the best and slightly corrected.
They were not talking about giant companies, natural perfume and a great perfume
Robertet until you’ve worked in a Japanese concern Takasago, Roure, Florasynth, Creations Aromatiques. The difference between the work in different companies?
Michelle: Well, she’s about the same everywhere. Different materials, which is at the disposal of the perfumer. Robertet itself produces raw, so I have first access to the ingredients, which is no one. In particular, to natural, which I love. In addition, the owner of the company is my friend, and there is an office in my hometown of Grasse.
If you love natural ingredients then why your brand is not natural?
Michelle: a Good natural perfume is very difficult to do. I almost never met. In my opinion, more or less obtained only colognes. But synthetic is more predictable, it’s easier.
But if you mix synthetic and natural ingredients — it turns out great. They reveal each other, make the flavor wider and richer. It was not my idea: more Francois Coty’s first combined synthetic and natural components and got the legendary L Origan. Without synthetic molecules would not be the great perfume like Shalimar.
You know your flavors, if I see them on someone in the crowd?
Michelle: Of Course. My fragrances stable formula which exactly revealed, and distinctive character. Generally, the flavor — like face. It needs to be remembered. Good spirits — the ones you tried, and then found out six months later. Opium, YSL, for example, with nothing to confuse.
Can you look at the formula and understand how it would be a good flavor?
Michelle: About can. I love short, simple formula. And if it is three pages of small handwriting, is likely to be complete stuff.
That is, the smaller the better?
Michelle: Yes, I even have to limit yourself. I use 20, maximum 25 ingredients. Edmond Roudnitska worked as: Eau Sauvage, Dior 15 components, in Femme Rochas too 15.
You probably have a lot of students? What you need to do to a young perfumer under your wing?
Michelle: In a major company you always have disciples. They appear by themselves. But, by the way, not only I teach them, but they are me. It’s like playing tennis: you’re sending the ball, watch how the opponent receives it and sends it back. I played with Jerome Epinette (Byredo), Christophe Raynaud, Christine Nagel.
Know what niche perfumers do not like such questions, but still ask. What will be in trend in the near future?
Michelle: actually, the answer to this question would like to know everything. But no one knows him! I don’t know. I can only assume: perfume fashion is cyclical. Approx emerges the trend for fruity notes on the natural molecule. I do not rule out that, finally, will brand that can make a beautiful natural perfume.
Flavors Parle Moi de Parfum can be enjoyed in the boutiques of the Molecule.